Montonale: A tale of tradition and innovation in Lugana

On the southern shores of Lake Garda, where the scenic beauty of Brescia meets Verona, lies the enchanting region of Lugana—a land where vineyards reign supreme. Montonale is nestled in this picturesque landscape, offering a serene escape for those who venture beyond the bustling lakeside into the rolling hills. The vineyards here benefit from a unique microclimate, thanks to the lake’s moderating influence and the cooling winds, Ora and Pelèr, which enhance the aromatic complexity of the grapes while ensuring their health.

Montonale’s story is steeped in history, with roots stretching back to ancient times when the land was part of the Selva Lucana forest. The soil, rich in limestone clay, owes its origins to the last Ice Age, which also gave birth to Lake Garda. This fertile ground has been home to vineyards for centuries, producing wines that, according to legend, were enjoyed by the Roman poet Catullus and the Ostrogoth king Theodatus.

The modern chapter of Montonale began in the early 20th century when Francesco Girelli tilled two hectares of land in Desenzano del Garda, planting Turbiana, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. His son Aldo expanded the family’s vineyards, cultivating Turbiana, Barbera, and Marzemino, and sharing the wines with customers across the Alpine regions. The tradition nearly came to an end when, in 1998, most of the vineyards were uprooted, and the last harvest seemed to mark the closure of a family legacy. However, hope was rekindled when Luciano Girelli, the next in line, was granted two hectares of vineyard by a great-uncle. With renewed passion, Luciano’s son, Roberto Girelli, along with his brothers Claudio and Valentino, revived the family tradition, setting Montonale on its current path of excellence.

The People Behind the Wine: The Girelli Family’s Passion

Roberto Girelli, the driving force behind Montonale, grew up amidst the aromas of the family’s cellar. In 2002, at just 20 years old, he oversaw his first harvest and soon after bottled 800 bottles under the Girelli label, which were eagerly purchased by family friends. Determined to deepen his knowledge, Roberto enrolled in the Faculty of Viticulture and Oenology in Verona. The first Montonale Lugana was born from the 2004 harvest, and by 2005, the family had expanded their vineyard with five more hectares of Turbiana and other red grape varieties.

Today, Roberto is joined by his brothers: Claudio, who manages the estate’s finances, and Valentino, who oversees the vineyards. Together, the Girelli brothers share a common goal—to redefine the future of Lugana wines. For them, Turbiana is more than just a refreshing wine to enjoy by the lake; it is a grape capable of producing age-worthy wines that evolve over time, revealing unexpected layers of complexity.

Winemaking philosophy: Embracing tradition and sustainability

Montonale’s vineyards cover 35 hectares around the winery, rooted in clay-rich, calcareous soils that imbue the grapes with a remarkable minerality, finesse, and aromatic depth. Each variety is planted in the soil best suited to its needs, with vines trained in a modified Guyot system to optimize sun exposure and grape quality. Valentino Girelli has committed to integrated farming practices, using natural fertilizers and encouraging grass growth between the rows. During the growing season, careful thinning and leaf removal ensure only the finest grapes are harvested, sometimes reducing the crop by up to 50% in challenging years.

The harvest is entirely manual, stretching from late September to the end of October, with multiple passes through the vineyard to select only perfectly ripe clusters.

The Cellar: A blend of innovation and respect for the grapes

Montonale’s winery is a model of sustainability, built with rice straw walls that provide natural insulation and ensure a healthy microclimate. A 96kW photovoltaic system powers the winery, making it energy-self-sufficient and significantly reducing its carbon footprint. Inside, state-of-the-art equipment, including a double-membrane press, a de-stemmer, and temperature-controlled tanks, are used with precision to respect the integrity of the grapes.

Indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation, highlighting the terroir's influence on the wine. Extended aging on fine lees enhances the wines' aromas, resulting in allergen-free wines with low sulfite content, which are cherished even by sensitive palates.

The Wines: Elegance and complexity in every bottle

Montonale’s wines truly reflect their terroir, with Turbiana playing the starring role. The estate’s flagship Lugana wines are known for their vibrant acidity, mineral backbone, and ability to age gracefully, developing complex tertiary notes that surprise and delight over time.

Looking to the future: A vision of excellence

The Girelli family’s vision for Montonale is clear—they aim to continue elevating the profile of Lugana wines, demonstrating that Turbiana is capable of producing world-class wines with depth, character, and longevity. With a deep respect for their heritage and a commitment to sustainable practices, the Girellis are ensuring that Montonale will remain a beacon of excellence in Lugana for generations to come.

"At Montonale, we craft our wines with the same care and passion as our ancestors, honoring the land and the traditions of Lugana. We invite you to experience the elegance and complexity of our wines, each bottle a testament to our family’s legacy and the unique terroir of this beautiful region."

— Girelli family

Marco’s personal notes

On the first evening of a business trip to Thailand, my colleagues from the Bangkok office invited me to dinner at an Italian restaurant. Usually, when I’m far from home, I prefer to explore local flavours rather than indulge in Italian cuisine. But that night, I was pleasantly surprised by the food quality. After ten days of intense Indian cuisine, that meal was a true relief—a comforting return to something familiar.

Lake Garda was already a region Jeanette and I intended to include in the Porcalorca project. But after that evening, it became clear that this wine was the perfect expression of Lugana we wanted to bring to Denmark.

There was an immediate and natural connection when we shared our project with Claudio. He listened attentively at first, and then he began to share his story—the story of his family and their wines. His wines are elegant, refined, and clean in aroma, and once on the palate, they unfold with a smoothness that evokes the land from which they are born. These wines don’t need to be described; they introduce themselves when you taste them.

“My mission,” Claudio told us, “is to grow a perfect fruit in the vineyard, harvest it, and in the cellar, try to take as little away as possible from the miracle that is the grape so that all the potential of those berries is expressed in the wine.” This is his philosophy, simple yet powerful.

He also spoke about the shared challenge of helping people understand how much work and dedication go into a glass of wine and how the culture of appreciating excellent wine at a fair price is still not widespread.

After several hours of exchanging ideas, opinions, and stories about Garda and the land of Lugana, we parted ways with the understanding that we have much work ahead to honor the efforts of Claudio and his brothers, Roberto and Valentino.

Here at Porcalorca, we proudly offer a wide selection of Montonale wines. We firmly believe that they are a true excellence that deserves to be known and appreciated by the refined palates of wine lovers in Denmark.

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